Desperate for Fruit!

We're so desperate that I had to send Linda out with help of dear friend, Tony Teti, to gather cherries for breakfast.

Spello

When we visited Spello a number of years ago - it's about an hour's drive south of the Villa - and in our wanderings, we met a Franciscan brother who was pastor of the St. Andrea church. He noticed we were looking at a partially excavated wall and began to explain - in Italian - that when they opened the wall to expand the inside width of the church, they discovered a fresco. When he realized we were foreigners and Americans, he began to tell us about his brother in Philadelphia - all in Italian - and then showed us into his humble quarters - a bed, bare bulb light and a small desk cum chest. He then took us to his work room where he opened drawer after drawer filled with small jars all filled with flower petals. The colors varied and some were black. When asked about the petals, with a twinkle in his eye and smile on his face, said tin a whisper hat he would walk the neighborhood each night and "steal" the petals. Well, when we arrived on Friday morning, we inquired about the good Brother. We were told that Brother Paulo was now in a retirement home in Foligno. That was sad to hear, but delighted that he was still alive. The church has not changed much; the area in which they found the frescoes is now open and it's sort of a hallway between the outer and an inner wall.




At this time of year in Spello, all the residents are competing for the best looking floral area. Flowers abound in all places - as some of the photos will show - and on 5 and 6 June, there will be a contest on floral designs on the streets around the central area.

As we walked through the narrow streets, there were boxes - like grape boxes - at various locations, where people would put flower petals that will eventually be used in the floral displays.

The most important documented history of Spello begins with its foundation by the Romans. Although history isn't always clear, but this may have taken place after the Perugian war in 41 B.C. Octavian (Caesar Augustas) seized the town, whose loyalty was to Anthony, and totally destroyed it. There was some rebuilding in the 4th century A.C, but then there were invasions by Attila in 450, by Totila in 546 and the destruction of the Longobards in 571. The Longobards conquered the town and became part of the Duchy of Spoleto (a nearby city). There were a series of ownerships after the Longobards, but you can find this on Google; the last fate that struck Spello was an earthquake in 1832, which had a serious affect on the town and economy.



There are about 8,000 people living in Spello, a town with many beautiful houses and narrow streets and alleys all of which have this wonderful motif of flower boxes and beds. See photos

We lunched at the Cacciatore (Hunter) restaurant on a balcony overlooking a beautiful valley.


The photos will attest to the beauty of this city. There were very few tourists; we had the city to ourselves.



Al/Linda

Art in Spello

I know, why go to a city just to see flowers - and they're just like the ones at home! Well, there is more to Spello than just flowers, but their yearly tradition of designing beautiful street scenes is a thing of talent and creativity.

Spello also has some beautiful art; here is a photo of a Madonna and Child painted by Pinturicchio (there were others, Jesus' Discussion with the Doctors of Law - but photos weren't allowed.

Here is a photo of Perugino's Pieta with St. John and the Evangelist and Magdalene.

Finally, a loggia



Enjoy,



al

Santo Stefano

Santo Stefano church here in Anghiari was built in the 8th Century in the Byzantine style; it is the oldest church in the entire area.

It is shaped like a Greek cross

and, as the photos will show, the interior is very simple, yet attractive.

There's a baptismal font in the church that is a 4' diameter hole, about a foot plus deep where, presumably filled with water, the priest would conduct the baptismal ceremony. Unfortunately, I didn't take a photo of it.

For reasons still unknown, my computer was down for two days and stress was beginning to buildup in me, hands shaking, nervous pacing, but thanks to my son, Chris, I'm on again. We've been to Spello and to Perugia in the interim with a trip back to Gubbio on Sunday to witness the crossbow competition, then to Cortona and Pisa in the following week. We're having a fabulous time and are beginning to wonder whether we have enough time between now and 17 July to see everything.





aj/linda

Ceramics from Gubbio

Gubbio is recognized as a ceramics producer and, each of the shops along the routes in the old city, have a type of ceramic/pottery for sale. I' took some photos which show a diversity of styles, shapes, colors and designs that were openly visible. Some are very pretty, some are funny and others are a bit eccentric, but you be the judge.

Of all the cities so far visited, Gubbio is truly geared for the tourists with shops up and down the main streets in the old city, but all shops have tastefully avoided the overuse of tourist trinkets in the open. Ah, there are some, but what we found interesting is that there are modern boutiques built into medieval buildings.

Linda may be right, this isn't a topic of great historic significance. These small ceramic tiles are amusingly funny as each depicts a profession. I'm sure you can make out most of them without an interpretation. Good luck.

There is Sunshine

As you can see we've taken the first step toward getting our full body into the water.
Still a bit cool, but if the sun is seen again throughout the week, by next weekend, we should be in the water.

I wish I could say that we miss Washington, but that would be a darn right fib, but we do want to see our new granddaughter who was born after we departed. We're feeling very guilty.

Driving in Italy

Some of you have driven in Italy before, but for those who haven't PLEASE remember that Italians love their vehicles and love to drive fast, so my plea to all of you is stay out of the left lane, unless you're planning to pass and then return quickly to the right lane. You will see cars whizzing by you and incredible speeds - and wonder why am I hearing these caution signs on my GPS telling me to slow down, while others are going 200 kilometers per hour??


Anyway, drive carefully. We want you here.

Sorci Castle and Resturant

I know how excited you are to read of our gluttonous habit of eating and then gloat about it to all of you, but at the same time, those of you who are making up your mind whether to travel to Italy, would like to know what the food is like. You do have to eat; you can't possibly just come to Italy for it's art, warm hospitality, churches, museums and pizza/panini cafes, but surely one of the reasons to be in Italy is for its food.

About 5 minutes from the villa there's a 12 century castle (Castello di Sorci) that has been converted to a restaurant operated as a country inn where you sit at rather long tables and devour, oops, savor, the many dishes from a fixed priced menu. I'll save the price part till the last. We arrived soon after 12 and left at about 2:40. But before describing the details of our lunch, here's the story about the Castle. I didn't write it, but it's one that has been circulating for ages.

"Deep in the depths of Tuscany, not too far from a delightful little place called Anghiari, which is on the border with Umbria, there is the hauntingly interesting restaurant the Locanda al Castello di Sorci.
Now, this restaurant, which seems to have a good reputation for its culinary expertise incidentally, has a little extra on its menu, in the form of the ghost of a certain Baldaccio d’Anghiari, who used to own the castle.

Apparently, Baldaccio, when he is out on his haunting rounds, has been known to have caused the restaurant’s patrons to flee their tables in utter terror – without paying, probably! Could it be that this Baldaccio is the spirit of a discontented customer? Someone who choked himself away from this world on a huge glob of Fiorentina steak?

Sorci Castle and Resturant

No, Baldaccio hails from an era long before part of his former home was turned into the Locanda al Castello di Sorci eatery. Indeed, this chap was ambushed and assassinated by his enemies many moons ago in September 1441, though he was not killed in Castello di Sorci from what I’ve understood. The headless body of Baldaccio was then thrown out of a window down into a Piazza della Signoria.

The clattering of armor announces this ghouls approach, and he makes a full appearance around midnight on the September anniversary of his murder. On occasions, the sound of poor Baldaccio’s armor is reduced to nothing more than a mere tinkling, which can be heard throughout the year.

The existence of this ghost, and the quality of the food, have turned this location into something of an attraction, and actors, politicians and other celebrities frequent the place. Some scenes from the the film ‘Non ci resta che piangere’ – ‘All we can do is cry’, with Roberto Benigni e Massimo Troisi, were set in the castle.

So, should you long for an eating experience with a difference, why not head for the Locanda al Castello di Sorci restaurant (The site is partially in English), near Anghiari? Anghiari, by the way, is very close to Citta del Castello in Umbria.

Could turn out to be quite an experience! If you find yourself there around midnight in September, brace yourself with a good grappa – you never know what might happen…

I wonder if the ghost’s appearance is reflected in the service charge, when he appears, that is."

It's an interesting tale, so I guess we will need to return in September - why not?

Lunch began with an array of appetizers from chicken liver to various salamis, to tomato-topped toasted bread to a mayonnaise and olive mixture, also on a piece of bread. Wine is automatically placed on the table as is water - either frizzante (with bubbles) or naturale.

The second course was a rice dish, very much like a risotto, with a mild freshly prepared tomato sauce and parmigiana cheese. The flavor is stimulated with the cheese. More wine. The waiter came by to asked if we wanted more risotto. No thanks

Believing that the rice served as the "pasta" dish or the primo piatto, we ate as much, perhaps too much, of the rice dish. Wow! Were we wrong.

The third dish was Tagliatelle with another tomato sauce, light and tasty, but quite different from the one used on the rice. The strands were about two feet long, a few dropped (I was serving) and I have a few spots on a clean white shirt - from the collar to the tummy. More wine. The waiter returned asking if we wanted more pasta. No thanks. I know a few of you who would not resist another helping or two. One or two of you will be coming next month. You know who you are.

The fourth dish was a mixed grill chicken, pork and sausage links and also a salad - got to have our greens. More wine and water. The waiter returned to ask if we wanted more of the mixed grill. We indicated more maiale - pork. Moments later he returned with more meat. Each of the pieces was delicious, cooked perfectly.

The table was cleared and out came the Vin Santo with a cake similar to a pound cake, but a bit coarser. Vin Santo is a sweet wine. Some contain more alcohol than others, this one did, but they are all good. The object is to dip the cake (and sometimes biscotti) into the wine, hopefully without it breaking up into the wine. I wasn't very successful, but it gave me the reason to add more Vin Santo to the glass.

This was followed by a coffee of your choice.

The day, dear friends, was perfect. Our divine Father opened up the skies and blessed us with lots of sun that filtered down to add to our vitamin-D deficient bodies. The setting at the castle was also ideal. We had a table overlooking the countryside. It is very informal and we look forward to taking some of our guests there for a lunch.

Well, the surprise was the bill. We were expecting to pay, because of the location, setting and quantities of food, a healthy amount, but when the bill came and it said 21 euros each, we were astonished to say the least, because most dinners so far have been above 25 euros per person - with wine and dessert. 21 Euros is about $26. Bear in mind that it included the wine - we could have had another bottle and more food, if our bodies could have consumed it, alas, we were sated.

We're now sitting by the pool enjoying the remaining rays of sunshine. It's 3:30 our time and the setting is thoroughly beautiful and relaxing.

Two guests leave tomorrow and two arrive. From tomorrow till we leave here on 17 July, we will enjoy family and friends. We look forward to them all.

Best to all,
aj

Gubbio - Plumbing

We're so comfortable with our plumbing system. We turn on the faucet and water flows; we flush the toilet and water flows; we water the garden and water flows from the hose. We take water for granted; however, after the fall of Rome, indoor plumbing disappeared through the middle ages. In Gubbio, in the 14th Century; however, indoor plumbing was available to some. They were able to get water from a source in the mountains and with the sophisticated use of hydraulics, the people from Gubbio managed to have running water on the 4th floor of the buildings housing their elected leaders. There were two fountains also supplied from this water source as well as toilets, but it's not certain how the toilets were cleaned. What is important is that plumbing did exist, albeit through gravity, but certainly not through PVC or copper piping, but through clay/terracotta channels.

Here are a couple of photos of a fountain that was the recipient of the water entering the building.

Gubbio - The Roman Theatre

One of the first visible ground  sights you witness entering the historic area of Gubbio is the Roman Theater. It  reminds us of a trip to Sicily a few years ago when on one of our outings to the  east of the city, we came upon Segesta, and rounding a curve, one of the most  amazing sights was the Roman temple, one of the more intact temples in existence.  Unfortunately, the Roman Theatre in Gubbio isn't quite intact.  Vandals have removed some of the material over the hundreds of years, a  happening that occurs in almost every ancient city where rocks have fallen. The  material is often used for building rock fences or even walls of houses.   But, anyway on with the story.

The theater's date of construction is  uncertain, but it was probably not built before 55 and not after 27 B.C.   And, archeologists theorize that it was restored no later than 14 A.D.  In  any case, it's very old. There may have been a Basilica on either end of the  Theater.  An interesting point is that the Theater was built using the  techniques of all Roman construction projects. This Theater is only slightly  smaller than those either in Pompeii or Marcellus in Rome.  It is purported  to have accommodated about 16,000 people, yet when you look at the seating, it's  incredulous to believe that it could have held that many people, but we're  seeing only a fraction of its size. 

As the photos will show, it is (and certainly was) a beautiful  Theater.

The Eugubine Tablets

The Eugubine Tablets discovered in 1444 by a farmer who later sold them for two years of grazing rights had no idea how important they would be for historians. Too bad there wasn't a lawyer to advise him, otherwise he might have been a "wealthy" Umbrian. The written material underscores the importance of Gubbio as one, if not the most important political and religious center of ancient Umbria.

There are seven bronze Tablets, which were purchased from the farmer in 1456, by the Gubbio council. Four of them and part of the fifth were written in the Umbrian alphabet with elements of the Etruscan language (3rd and 2nd century B.C.) The other Tablets were written in Latin. I'm relying on what others have written about the Tablets, but the Tablets explained Gubbio's position within the existing territory and referred to a rock on high (an acropolis), which was a symbol of religiosity.

The population, according to the Tablets, was divided into ten groups called "decuries" all with ethnic names. Each of these divisions was sub-divided into two groups head by a chosen family. Keep in mind readers, that while it was found in 1444, the Tablets go back several hundred years before Christ - the early Roman period and focuses on both religious and political events. It certainly stresses the organizational skills extant, realizing that each family was given specific responsibilities. The focus was on religious matters, but there was a leader referred to as the "Marone" who dealt with social matters. In the religious context, the parallel figure was the "autore."

The Eugubine Tablets describe "ceremonies" that the ancient Umbrians performed in Gubbio including rituals of atonement, purification, sacrifices to counteract evil decuries (I guess if someone was trying to gain more power, they would be considered "evil decuries), ceremonies involving dogs and libations.

The Tablets describe specifically two main ceremonies - Atonement and Purification. The first was a preparatory ritual on Mount Foce where the "augur" gleaned divine messages by the flight of the birds (a seer?). The second ceremony was held further away from the town walls. There were similar rituals, but the outsiders were kept at a distance because those conducting the ritual believed they were specifically chosen by God. Not only did they keep the outsiders away, those chosen by God openly cursed their enemies.

No doubt that historians were ecstatic to have the Tablets in their possession that provided information that described how the Umbrian people developed, prospered and interrelated with Romans and other societies. It was a rare find that shed light on activities in this area of Italy.

Read one on the left first (click to enlarge), which is the "official" explanation of the Tablets. There's more in the next photo.

Gubbio

Gubbio, about 45 kilometers southeast of the villa, is another beautiful town with a plethora of history and artifacts that go back to 3rd/4th century B.C. It was built upon the slopes of Mount Ingino. A French writer at the beginning of the last century wrote about Gubbio: "in the stones of the buildings of Gubbio, it seems that the very soul of Medieval Italy is immortalized. I think it's evident the moment your eyes focus on the city walls - and stones.


Gubbio is in Umbria and is about 500 meters above sea level, so you can imagine that there is constant up and down walking. For those with some difficulty walking up the hills, the city has conveniently installed a series of elevators to take you to the top. One elevator takes you to one level, then you have to walk about 25 meters on the cobblestone road to get to the second one, which takes you to the upper level.

There are six doors into the city and I didn't take a clear shot of any of them; ah, well, we'll go back as new guests arrive. Some of you will get a chance to read about the history, but it is believed that more than 300,000 years ago, the caves on Mount Foce (there are three mountain ranges - Foce, Mount Ingino and Mount D'Asciano) were inhabited by "ferocious" homo-erectus, the first to use hand-axes, some of which have been discovered. About 30,000 years ago, the Homo-Sapiens (modern man) arrived, some of whom made homes on the "cyclopean walls" of Mount Foce. see below (click to enlarge).

Because Gubbio was such an important base for Umbrian culture, I've decided to break up my notes into various topics: the Eugubine Tablets, The Roman Theater, Ceramics, Art, old fountains and water movement and some street scenes only to show the architecture and construction. There may be others, but I took 168 photos, but I'll spare you the downloading time, but will send a small sampling that correspond to the topics. Gubbio is another of the Italian cities that would delight both the amateur and professional photographer.

Caprese Michelangelo

We fell in love with a new place in Italy and, as soon as I can negotiate the price for a piece of land, we will soon start thinking of a construction project to build a home in this incredibly beautiful and peaceful area. It is a picture postcard of where one would want to live or raise a family. It's a community of 1600 residents living in an area where, had it not been that Michelangelo Ludovico Buonarroti was born, the town would not be on the map - and it most likely would have another name, but it doesn't dispel our dream of living in this area. The narrow streets limit the movement of traffic other than small vehicles, and the vistas from practically any direction over the valleys below are, green and lush, and at an altitude that might just keep the bugs from invading our space.

To get to the Casa where Michelangelo was born, there was quite a walk up a rather steep hill, but once there, the views were extraordinary.

Michelangelo's father was the Podesta of the community, which is equivalent of being the Mayor, Chief of Police, Judge, etc., all rolled into one. They lived in a modest home, but for the region it would have been considered grand.

I spent a lot of time talking with Gilberto, the ticket man, guard, and greeter, all in one. Gilberto spent several years in Atlanta, Georgia, so speaks English quite well, but he married a Cuban woman, so his Spanish is quite fluent. We spoke in Italian and Spanish - and sometimes both in the same sentence. I wondered about the number of tourists who visit - and there are many, he said, despite the narrowness of the streets. Buses would have to park down below - and there are no elevators. Caprese, the word derives from Capre, which is the word for goat and, according to Gilberto, the area thrived in goats during the period of and after the birth of Michelangelo.

The museum has a number of castings of Michelangelo's work and, in a very simplistic way, narrates the history of this genius. There's a painting that depicts the fall of Michelangelo's mother during her pregnancy with Michelangelo. The reader is left with the question, What if?

Anyway, here are some photos - and I'll try to send a number of them to give you an idea of the beauty of the small town.

Lippiano

This visit turned out to be the jewel of the day.

The castle is now a hotel/pension. There are 9 apartments in there, and from the outer rim of the castle there's no indication it is being used for lodging. In fact, you can see from the photos (below) that it's in need of considerable repair. As we walked up the stairs to an inner courtyard, with cars parked and a number on the door, we then realized it had another use. Lippiano is up on a hill overlooking a broad valley.

I had the opportunity to talk with a woman who was born and raised in the Ukraine - her Italian was elementary. She came to this Italian area for work and to make money (she got the word "soldi" down pat), believing, like so many who leave their homes for lives abroad, that life would be better for them. She left everything behind including family and friends. Her neighbor is a Florentine blacksmith with hands the size of base ball gloves and a powerful grip. He left Florence 3 years ago for a quieter life - and he found it in Lippiano. He rents a room in the same house occupied by the Ukrainian woman and has his workshop in the basement of the house. He makes wrought iron grates, gates, and other ornamental products. He commented that what he does is "illegal." He's about 70 plus years old with unruly white hair and a salt and pepper beard which was just as unruly. He spoke some English from days living and visiting London. Both are eking a living. They were delightful people, but neither could explain the history of the castle. The Internet was not very helpful either other than the use of the castle as a seasonal rental. The guide books have nothing on Lippiano, which, by the way is in Umbria, not Tuscany. If I were looking for a hide-away, Lippiano would certainly fit my needs. See the photos. So, I'm shouting our to anyone listening, if I'm lost or unaccounted for, look for me in Lippiano. Another person we chatted with was a Brit; she commented that the Brits occupy these quarters every year.

People will live in anything that is historic.